Ireland Road Trip Part 3: Cobh Titanic Experience, Sheep’s Head Hike, Ring of Kerry Drive & Dingle Peninsula Highlights
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Day 6: Cobh & Sheep’s Head Peninsula
Today was a day of adventure. We ate our lovely home-cooked breakfast and then headed out. Our first adventure of the day was Cobh. This was the last port of call for the Titanic. We parked on the street near St. Colman’s Cathedral. This is a beautiful old cathedral that sits on a hill above the main town of Cobh and the ocean. We walked down the steep streets to get to the bustling area of Cobh. We decided to take the Titanic Experience tour, and it was truly captivating. Although the museum is smaller than its Belfast counterpart, I found this tour far more engaging and insightful.
After leaving Cobh, we headed toward Sheep’s Head Peninsula. We took a few wrong turns along the way, but once we finally arrived, we set out on the 4 km round-trip hike to the lighthouse at the edge of the peninsula. The path was rugged and steep, even requiring a bit of scrambling near the end, but the challenge made it one of our favorite experiences in Ireland. Along the way, we shared the trail with local sheep and cows, eventually reaching the lighthouse where the land meets the ocean. We stayed so late enjoying the views that all of the restaurants were closed so we had to settle for a dinner of gas station snacks!
Day 7: Torc Waterfall & Kenmare
Following another wonderful Irish breakfast, we checked out of our B&B and set a course for Kenmare. Our first destination was Torc Waterfall in Killarney National Park. While the terrain was less rocky than the day before, the climb up ‘Cardiac Hill’ was every bit as steep as the name suggests!
Confession: We had expected a short stroll from the car park to the falls, but a wrong turn on the loop turned our visit into a much more substantial and beautiful hike.
We then continued through the park to the iconic Ladies View. Despite the misty weather, the outlook was stunning!
Pro Tip: It’s best enjoyed with some ice cream from the shop right next door.
The day concluded with a winding drive into Kenmare, where we checked in and headed straight to PF McCarthy’s. It was the perfect spot for food and conversation with the locals before we rounded out the night with traditional music at a few nearby pubs.
Day 8: Our Day on the Ring: The Highlights & Personal Moments
We kicked off early from Kenmare after a hearty B&B breakfast, heading clockwise around the loop. (More on direction below). The road first winds through Killarney National Park, where misty lakes and grazing red deer greet you amidst the fresh, pine-scented air. It’s a peaceful stretch of forest and mountain that eventually gives way to the dramatic opening of the coast.
- Early Stops & Views: We hit Torc Waterfall, enjoying a quick, rewarding hike to see the roaring falls. Next was the iconic Ladies View, where you can soak in views of the Lakes of Killarney with an ice cream in hand from the nearby café. Located within the national park, these spots offer a lush, wooded atmosphere that eases you into the journey before the scenery shifts to the wild Atlantic coast.
- Villages & Charm: The charm of the Ring isn’t just in the cliffs, but in the villages nestled along the route. Sneem stole our hearts with its colorful buildings and scenic river crossing, perfect for a leg-stretch and a few quick photos. Waterville brought us to the famous Charlie Chaplin statue, a tribute to his many summers spent in the area. There’s an undeniable authenticity to these places, between the friendly shops and the traditional pubs that invite you to linger.
- The Kerry Cliffs: While many flock to Moher, we found our absolute favorite experience at The Kerry Cliffs. There is a certain ‘raw power’ here that is hard to find elsewhere, with jagged rock arms stretching out toward the Skellig Islands and Puffin Island. The trek up to the viewpoints is steep and exposed, windy even on calm days, but the 1,000-foot drop to the ocean creates a massive payoff. It’s less crowded, more intimate, and easily the most jaw-dropping sight on the Ring of Kerry. If you only have time for one detour, make it The Kerry Cliffs. You can also book a guided Ring of Kerry day tour that includes the Kerry Cliffs if you’d rather not drive.
- Other Gems: Beyond the main sights, the road is dotted with other gems, from ancient beehive huts to relic stone forts like Staigue Fort. One of our favorite quirky moments happened right by the roadside: a local farmer standing with a tiny baby lamb in his arms. With a wide grin, he offered a ‘photo with the wee one’ for €10. While clearly a clever bit of local entrepreneurship, it was impossible to resist. We paid up, Tara completely melted while cuddling the fluffy lamb, and we drove off laughing—it was a moment of pure, authentic Irish charm.
- Food & Fuel: You won’t go hungry on this route if you plan your stops right. We highly recommend O’Neil’s The Point for a scenic lunch by the ferry launch. For dinner, The Blue Bull Restaurant in Sneem is a must—their steamed mussels were the highlight of our meal. While the seafood is exceptional and portions are large, keep in mind that some areas are isolated. Definitely bring along water and snacks for the longer, more remote stretches of the drive.
From morning until dusk, the Ring of Kerry demanded our full attention. We lingered at every overlook and explored hidden paths, utilizing the frequent lay-bys to move at our own peaceful pace. By the end of the day, we were exhausted in the best way possible—our spirits full, our lungs clear, and our cheeks still stinging slightly from the salt air and a dozen hours of nonstop smiling.
Practical Tips for Your Ring of Kerry Drive
- Which direction should you drive? For the smoothest experience, head clockwise from Killarney. This strategy keeps you from trailing behind the large tour buses that typically stick to a counterclockwise route. You’ll also find that the scenery is more accessible on your left and passing is less stressful. While counterclockwise works for more experienced drivers, keep a sharp eye out for buses appearing suddenly around narrow curves.
- Time Needed: 8–10+ hours. Although the actual driving time is under 4 hours, the magic of the Ring of Kerry lies in the stops. We recommend a 7:00 AM start to ensure you have the best views to yourself before the tour buses arrive.”
If planning the route, timing, and stops feels overwhelming, you can work with Crafted Routes to design a custom Ring of Kerry day plan.
- Driving Conditions: Before you set out, keep in mind that the roads here are as narrow and twisty as they are beautiful, requiring careful navigation through single-lane sections. If you’re nervous about driving on the left, an automatic will make the journey much more relaxing. The weather is equally unpredictable, often cycling through ‘four seasons in one day,’ so come prepared with layers and waterproof gear. Finally, ensure you have good shoes on hand for the many rewarding short hikes you’ll find along the way.”
- Best Time: While summer offers the benefit of long daylight hours, the shoulder seasons of spring and fall are arguably the best times to visit. You’ll encounter far fewer crowds and witness the landscape at its most vibrant green. Just be sure to keep an eye on the sky—the weather changes quickly, but the sight of a rainbow appearing right after a sudden shower is truly magical.
- Pro Tip: Use pull-offs liberally. Let faster cars pass. And yes, extend to Skellig Ring for those Kerry Cliffs, worth every extra minute!
The Ring of Kerry wasn’t just a drive; it was a full-sensory immersion—wind in your hair, salt on your lips, sheep bleating, and that feeling of being tiny against nature’s grandeur. If Ireland has a heartbeat, you’ll surely feel it here.
Day 9: Gap of Dunloe & Killarney Lakes
Our first taste of dreary Irish weather arrived today with cool temperatures and a steady drizzle, but the rain did little to dampen our spirits. We began our morning in Killarney, where a bus transported us to Kate Kearney’s Cottage at the entrance of the Gap of Dunloe. From there, we boarded a traditional jaunty car, a horse and buggy that typically seats four for about $25 per person, to journey through the Gap. While there is a free 7-mile walking option, the buggy ride was an amazing way to soak in the beautiful, hilly scenery. You can book this Gap of Dunloe and Killarney Lakes combo tour in advance so all the logistics (bus, horse and buggy, and boat) are handled for you.”
The ride concluded at Lord Brandon’s Cottage, where we were able to use the restroom and grab a drink and some food (cash-only) before joining another family for a boat tour across the upper and lower lakes. Despite the mist, the lake views were incredible. After catching a return bus to our car, we made the drive to Dingle to check into our next B&B. We spent the evening exploring the town and ended the day at The Dingle Pub, enjoying a mix of great food, traditional music, and authentic Irish dancing. It quickly became our favorite pub of the entire trip—so much so that we were already planning to return for round two the following day!
Day 10: Dingle Peninsula
What a difference a day makes! We traded yesterday’s drizzle for brilliant sunshine and 65-degree temperatures, providing the perfect backdrop for exploring the Dingle Peninsula. Our morning began with a peaceful stroll along Inch Beach, soaking in the scenery and the rhythmic sounds of the Atlantic.
From there, we navigated the Dingle Peninsula’s winding roads, stopping at ancient ruins, breathtaking lookouts, and even a Star Wars filming location. One of the most unique sights was Dunquin Pier, a steep, crooked pier specifically designed for shepherding sheep to and from the docks. If you don’t want to drive those narrow roads, consider a guided Dingle Peninsula and Slea Head tour.
After our coastal loop, we returned to Dingle to explore the colorful main streets and enjoy a fantastic dinner at The Fish Box. We spent our final night soaking up the local pub culture, starting at the quirky Foxy John’s, half hardware store, half pub, and ending with music, dancing, and a bowl of chowder at The Dingle Pub. It was the perfect farewell to the area before we headed up the west coast the following day.
Ready to plan your own Ireland road trip, including a customized Ring of Kerry route with your perfect stops, pacing, and hidden gems? Head to Crafted Routes for personalized custom itinerary planning tailored to your pace, interests, and budget!
